So we had the luck of finding the cheapest hostel in Calafate. There are many excursions to do there but all for a hefty price. We came for one reason and one reason only - to see the Perito Moreno, a huge ass glacier.
There were two options to see the Glacier.
1. Pay a taxi 250 pesos to drive you to the park (which was one hour away) and he drops you off for two hours then takes you right back.
OR
2. Rent a car and have the whole day to yourself
We rented the car
**I want take a second and thank my mother, Dinah, for the quick story i´m about to tell. I turned 15 and just received my learners permit. My mother called over her Tio Moises to come to the house in his (I believe 61) jet black Volkswagen Karmann Ghia. The car was a 4 speed manual. She said “You and your brother are going to learn to drive manual today”. I said “Why, every car is automatic now anyways”. She responds “One day, you are going to need to rent a car in some other country, and all they are going to have is a manual”. Well, EVERY car at this rental place was a manual. I was the only person in our group who went that could drive stick. Gracias, Mami. I love you**
The drive was spectacular. Vast mountain ranges and the most bluest lakes you can imagine. The water from the lakes is glacier runoff which gives it this amazing blue color. We arrived at the park and the we took a boat tour which brings you up to the face of Perito Moreno. This was something incredible. The huge wall of ice, just 50 yards away from us, was breaking in front of our faces, causing these huge splashes. The sound of the ice cracking was the most impressing part for me. The cracks were soooo loud and then you would look to see a huge chunk landing in the water.
After that we did the walking tour which is just a walkway they made to go above the glacier. The glacier goes back as far as the eye can see. And it looks straight out of Superman (the original) when he goes to that ice planet. Just sharp slabs ofice prturding 50 feet into the air. Such a beautiful sight to see.
We heard from everyone to visit a town called El Chantel, because of the famous Fitz Roy. It is a mountain peak that is the logo for the company Patagonia. It is so difficult to climb, that only 1 person does it a year. We research our options to get out of El Chantel to head to Bariloche and learn that these towns are run by one company. It´s a damn monopoly. More on this later.
El Chantel is a very small town located within a park. They are very strict on polluting and obeying all rules. Our friend Samuel, the Dutchman we have been traveling with since Iguazu, got very sick and couldn’t get out of bed. Joey, another dutch girl we met and myself , set out for Fitz Roy the next morning. The hike was incredible, we had been warned there will be rain but nothing yet. I had brought with me, 3 peaches, 3 plums, a loaf of bread, a bottle of water, and a small package of cookies - all for the day (we planned to be out until nightfall) Turns out this dutch girl forgot everything and being the gentleman i am, offered to split my rations.
Besides this, the landscape was so beautiful, we even saw more glaciers in the distance. Surrounded by mountains and rivers and lakes - It was completely in the wild and i loved it. We didn’t run into many other hikers so it was very isolated and i loved that. We did happen to meet a mother and daughter who were from Gainesville (what are the chances?!).
So this is where the two most boring/frustrating days of my life come into play. First off, there are only two companies that leave out of Chantel towards Bariloche. One on even days and the other on odd. Turns out, they have the same owner! So this is how it goes. This bus is supposed to be going down the brand new Ruta 40 to get to Bariloche. It takes 2 days. EVERY other bus we have taken in Argentina gives you the option of a Cama or Semicama (a seat that reclines into a bed) they give you food, drinks, and movies to watch. THIS COMPANY HAD NONE OF THIS. To make it worse, RUTA 40 is so new, that its not even paved yet. 2 days of off roading on a fucking bus that has seats that don’t recline. YOU CANNOT SLEEP. It was so bumpy. So, i decided to read. I started and finished The Brief Wondrous Life Of Oscar Wao. Shout out to George Wasgatt for the rec. It was effing awesome.
First day is 12 hours and the second is 13. I have been on worse but what really ticked me off about the whole situation, this was the most i have payed for a bus ticket my entire time in south america, and it was the worst one.
The view, you would think since we are in Patagonia, would be amazing. It wasn´t. Just straight up desert. FLAT. NADA. Oh and we make stops every two hours. Where? to little shops, built in the middle of the desert THAT THIS SAME BUS COMPANY OWNS. So now we are forced to buy food here at these places. We did have our own food so for day one we were good on saving money.
The hotel where we stayed at (because this bus doesn’t go on overnight, although every other bus in South America does) is ALSO OWNED BY THE BUS COMPANY. IT NEVER ENDS!!!!!That hotel btw was super effing scary. We thought it was haunted. Good water pressure though.
So day 2, just as shitty as the first. Started a book i read 100 times but still don’t understand but i love reading it. Stopped at gas stations this time, but still just as shitty - no hot food anywhere so i ate cookies and more bread. But finally, while reading on the bumpiness - I notice my average words per minute greatly increased?! What was this, a paved road!!!!!!!! Then, some greenery, small shrubs, nothing to call home about. In about an hour, rolling hills, and then TREES GALORE! MOUNTAINS, LAKES, RIVERS. We were entering The Lake District. We finally made it. It was a pretty dramatic entrance, too. The sun setting to the west and the moon rising over a mountain range on the east. The reflection of the moon on the lake. Super romantic. I would have kissed the girl sitting next to me except it was a guy and it was Joey. So i didn’t.
Now we are in Bariloche. Im going to find a place tomorow to have Passover sedar and will try my hardest to keep it. We are going to go whitewater rafting here and possibly camping. Nature is beautilful.
That reminds me of something my cousin Adam and Lauren taught me back in the day to say when somebody calls you a “bitch”.
A bitch is a female dog. A female dog barks. A bark is a part of a tree. A tree is a part of nature. Nature is beautiful.
Wont ever forget that. But also wont ever say that to someone who called me a bitch because i would probably get slapped.
Ok enough. Love you guys. Goodnight.
Robert
